Our most popular epoxy flake garage floor in Kansas City
Our most popular epoxy flake garage floor in Kansas City
This is a remodeled concrete floor we are working on. The floor is 9 years old and was heavily worn. Brought this area back in 2 diamond tooling steps without using a guard product for ‘fake shine’…most concrete polishers would like to get this look after 7 steps or more
We did a post on our main site, kansascityconcrete.net, about sealing concrete in Kansas City.
It’s nothing fancy…just a video of a siloxane treatment we do to concrete surfaces. Penetrating sealers such as this do not change the color of your concrete. They also chemically react with your concrete and make it hydrophobic….Waterproof!
Not all sealers are equal. It’s important to be able to communicate with someone who knows what concrete sealer to use for the particular application.
We use a completely different product for sealing stamped concrete in Kansas City.
I thought I would share this with you. Decorative Concrete Supply in Lenexa had a great write up about staining concrete in a recent newsletter I got. Enjoy!!
|4 Basic Steps to Staining|
Concrete stains, both reactive (acid stain) and non reactive (water based), enjoy wide spread popularity among designers and home owners. Whether you are veteran professional applicator or a first timer, understanding the basics is vital to achieving good results. Let’s review the four basic steps to staining, and the proper procedures for each. Almost all stain problems can be eliminated by following these steps.
1. Surface preparation: Understanding what the concrete is going to do once the stain is applied is very important. Proper surface preparation can save you a lot of headaches down the road. A simple water test (spraying water over the surface and observing what happens) is always recommended, and tells quite a bit about the porosity of the concrete and the ability for the stain to wet out and react. Look for dry spots or beading of the water. If the water does not soak in evenly, additional prep may be necessary. Dry sanding, chemical degreasers, and mineral acid cleaning are three common methods of cleaning or opening up the surface for better penetration. Conducting a moisture-vapor emission test is also a good idea at this time. This will measure how much moisture vapor is being emitted from the slab. Too much moisture could inhibit stain penetration. You can find out more about moisture testing by talking to one of the sales professionals at Decorative Concrete Supply.
2. Stain application: Applying the stain is actually the easiest of the four steps. Most stains provide a coverage rate of 250 to 300 square feet per gallon. Avoid over application, which can create surface tension or buildup, especially on less-porous concrete surfaces and when using darker stain colors. I recommend applying the stain using a good quality sprayer. It can be a pump up type or a pressure type; the critical thing is that you have a good quality tip that sprays evenly, and does not “spit”. Make sure to apply even thin coats, with two coats usually being sufficient. With acid stains, allow a minimum of 5 hours of dwell time between applications. If using a broom or scrubber to work the stain into the concrete, remember to work out any broom marks and/or streaks.
3. Neutralizing and washing: This is the most misunderstood and overlooked step of the four, especially when acid staining. To better understand the importance of neutralizing, think of it this way: By applying an acid stain, you take concrete from a basic pH state to an acid state. You need to return the concrete to a basic state, while removing any unreacted stain and stain residue. Simply put, this step involves a good old-fashioned cleaning and scrubbing with an alkaline soap that can break down stain residue and neutralize the surface. Using water by itself is not enough. Once again, using a broom or walk-behind scrubber makes the job easier. Typically, multiple scrubbings are needed, especially with terra cotta and dark brown stains. Take a pH test to make sure the surface has been properly neutralized. Then rinse the surface with clean water and allow ample dry time before sealing. Using water based stain makes the job much easier since there is not acid to neutralize, just make sure any remaining residue has been removed.
4. Sealing and maintenance: The final step is to apply a sealer to the stained floor, to keep it looking and performing its best. However, if the project is an interior application, sealing by itself is not enough. It’s important to use a sealer system, which includes a base-coat sealer and a sacrificial topcoat sealer, or wax. In the next edition we will discuss sealing after staining in detail.
Even when you follow all the steps outlined above, variations can occur. That’s why you should apply a sample of the stain for all your staining projects. This is the only way to get a good idea of what the stain will look like. For more detailed staining guidelines, consult with the stain manufacturer, or the sales professionals at Decorative Concrete Supply.
A new blog started about polished concrete.
The below is a great article I found which describes in detail polished concrete as compared to some other flooring choices.
I hope this article gives you some insight on polished concrete flooring.
Don’t feel bad if your one of the people that bought the epoxy coating kit for your garage floor at Home Depot and thought it would be a great idea…..only to find that a few months later it is pealing and looks like junk.
Many clients call us for remedies to fix your concrete garage flooring. The Home Depot epoxy is just glorified paint in my opinion…pure junk. We have many people we help in this situation. How do you fix this issue.
This application is done with a 12000 + psi epoxy product that provides a truley awesome epoxy garage floor.
So don’t worry if your garage floor has the ‘big box store’ product on it….there is a solution.
Think about the title of this damn blog post. Ask yourself? Do you want to hire a contractor that wants your business or one who wants your money? There is a damn big difference! ( I can cuss…its my blog) Here is the fundamental difference.
I. Wants your money?
II. Wants your business
Sorry if I cussed too much on this post. KU just lost and is now out of the tournament because they didn’t look like they gave a damn until it was too late….which is exactly what I don’t want to happen to you.
So if you give a damn. I want your damn business.